Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 1 Page 48

  3 or 4 white turnips, peeled and quartered

  Following the preceding recipe, quarter and blanch the artichokes, and cook the diced onions in the olive oil (or butter). Then add the artichokes and place the whole onions and the other vegetables around the edge of the casserole. Baste with the diced onions and oil (or butter), and season with salt and pepper. Proceed with the recipe.

  12 to 18 mushroom caps lightly sautéed in olive oil or butter

  About 10 minutes before the end of the cooking, add the mushroom caps. Finish the sauce and serve the casserole as in the preceding recipe.

  ARTICHOKE HEARTS OR BOTTOMS

  Fonds d’Artichauts

  Although there is a tendency to lump artichoke hearts and bottoms together, they are technically different. The heart is the tender central part of baby artichokes; it includes the inner cone of leaves, the choke, and the bottom. The bottom is just the meaty bottom part, usually of larger artichokes, minus leaves and choke. Unless you live near a market catering to the baby artichoke desires of a foreign clientele, you will probably only see artichoke hearts in a can, a jar, or a frozen package. Bottoms, however, you can prepare yourself, and they are even more of a delicacy in this country, owing to the price of artichokes, than they are in France. Sliced, and braised in butter, they make a delicious vegetable garnish; quartered and served in a vinaigrette sauce, they are a delightful first course. Or you may top the whole bottom with poached eggs and a sauce for an elegant hot first course, or fill it with shellfish mayonnaise for a cold luncheon dish. Whatever your plans for them, you must first trim the leaves off your artichokes to expose the bottoms, and then poach them in a blanc to preserve their whiteness.

  HOW TO PREPARE ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS

  Choose the largest artichokes you can find. Ideally they should be 4½ inches in diameter, which will do for one serving. Otherwise, allow two per person. Prepare them as illustrated on the opposite page.

  Break the stem off close to the base of the artichoke. Holding the artichoke bottom up, bend a lower leaf back on itself until it snaps. Then pull it off. Continue all around the artichoke until you have gone beyond the curve of the artichoke bottom, where the cone of leaves folds inward.

  Cut off remaining cone of leaves close above top of artichoke bottom. Immediately rub cut parts with lemon juice to prevent discoloration.

  Trim bottom part, rotating it slowly with your left hand against the blade of a knife held firmly in your right hand. Remove all bits of green to expose the whitish tender surface. Frequently rub cut portions with lemon juice. Drop each as it is finished into a bowl of acidulated water (2 Tb lemon juice per quart of water).

  Trimmed bottom ready to cook; choke is removed after cooking

  FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS À BLANC

  [Cooked Artichoke Bottoms—Preliminary Cooking]

  A blanc is a solution of salted water with lemon juice and flour. It is used for the preliminary cooking of any food which discolors easily, such as artichoke bottoms, salsify, calf’s head. Flour and lemon juice blanch the food and keep its whiteness.

  Never cook artichoke bottoms in anything but enamel, pyrex, stainless steel, or earthenware. Aluminum or iron pans will give them a grayish color.

  For 6 to 8 large artichoke bottoms

  ¼ cup flour

  An enameled saucepan

  A wire whip

  1 quart cold water

  2 Tb lemon juice

  1½ tsp salt

  Put the flour in the saucepan and beat in a bit of cold water to make a smooth paste. Then beat in the rest of the water, the lemon juice, and the salt. Bring to the boil and simmer 5 minutes.

  Add the artichokes. Bring liquid again to the boil, then simmer 30 to 40 minutes or so until tender when pierced with a knife. Be sure they are completely covered with liquid at all times. Add more water if necessary.

  Allow them to cool in their liquid. If they are to be refrigerated for a day or two, film the top of the liquid with oil. Just before using, remove from the liquid and wash under cold water. Delicately scoop out the choke with a spoon, and trim off the remaining leaf ends.

  Cooked Artichoke Bottom, Choke Removed

  FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS AU BEURRE

  [Buttered Artichoke Bottoms, Whole]

  This is the method for heating cooked artichoke bottoms which are to be filled with hot vegetables, poached eggs, béarnaise sauce, truffles, or whatever is called for.

  Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

  6 cooked artichoke bottoms (see preceding recipe)

  Salt and white pepper

  4 Tb butter

  A covered fireproof casserole (enameled, pyrex, or stainless steel) just large enough to hold the artichokes in one layer

  A round of buttered waxed paper

  Season the artichokes with salt and pepper. Heat the butter in the casserole until it is bubbling. Remove from heat. Baste each artichoke bottom with butter as you place it upside down (to keep center moist) in the casserole. Lay the buttered paper over them. Reheat the casserole, then place it in the middle level of the preheated oven for about 20 minutes, or until they are well heated through. Do not overcook.

  The artichokes are now ready to receive any filling your recipe directs.

  VARIATIONS

  Quartiers de Fonds d’Artichauts au Beurre

  [Buttered Artichoke Bottoms, Quartered]

  This is basically the same as the preceding recipe, except that the artichoke bottoms are cut into quarters, and shallots or onions are included with the butter. Use quartered artichokes as a vegetable garnish or combine them with other vegetables such as braised carrots and onions, or sautéed mushrooms. They go well with veal, chicken, and egg dishes.

  6 cooked artichoke bottoms

  Cut the artichoke bottoms in quarters, and preheat oven to 325 degrees.

  4 Tb butter

  A 6-cup, enameled casserole

  2 Tb minced shallots or green onions

  Salt and pepper

  A round of waxed paper, buttered

  2 Tb minced parsley

  Melt the butter in the casserole. Stir in the shallots or onions, then fold in the artichokes. Season with salt and pepper, and lay over them the round of buttered paper. Cover the casserole and bake in middle level of preheated oven for about 20 minutes, or until the vegetables are well steeped in the butter. Do not overcook. Sprinkle with parsley before serving.

  (*) May be cooked in advance.

  Fonds d’Artichauts Mirepoix

  [Buttered Artichoke Bottoms with Diced Vegetables]

  This is particularly good if the artichoke bottoms are to be served as a separate vegetable.

  3 Tb each: finely diced carrots, onions, and celery

  2 Tb finely diced, lean, boiled ham

  Ingredients for the preceding buttered artichoke bottoms

  Cook the carrots, onions, celery, and ham for 8 to 10 minutes in the butter called for in the preceding recipe. When the vegetables are tender but not browned, add the rest of the ingredients listed, and proceed with the recipe.

  Fonds d’Artichauts à la Crème

  [Creamed Artichoke Bottoms]

  Serve creamed artichoke bottoms with roast veal or chicken, or sautéed brains or sweetbreads. They also go with omelettes.

  Ingredients for 6 quartered artichoke bottoms cooked as in either of the two preceding variations

  1½ cups whipping cream

  Salt and pepper

  1 tsp lemon juice, more if needed

  A hot vegetable dish

  2 Tb minced parsley

  While the artichoke bottoms are cooking as directed in either of the two preceding recipes, boil the cream in a small saucepan until it has reduced by half. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. When the artichokes are done, fold the hot cream into them. Simmer for a moment on top of the stove to blend flavors. Turn into a hot vegetable dish and sprinkle with parsley.

  Fonds d’Artichauts Mornay

  [Artichoke Bottoms Gratinéed
with Cheese Sauce]

  Serve gratinéed artichoke bottoms with roast chicken or veal, sautéed chicken, veal scallops, or liver. Or you could use them as a hot first course or luncheon dish; in this case, you might fold into the artichoke bottoms before saucing them 1 cup of sautéed mushrooms, diced boiled ham, or diced cooked chicken.

  Ingredients for 6 buttered artichoke bottoms, quartered

  1½ cups sauce mornay (béchamel with cheese)

  A lightly buttered baking dish about 8 inches in diameter and 2 inches deep

  3 Tb grated Swiss cheese

  1 Tb butter

  While the artichoke bottoms are cooking, make the sauce mornay. When they are done, spread one third of the sauce in the dish and arrange the artichokes over it. Pour on the rest of the sauce, sprinkle on the cheese, and dot with butter.

  About 30 minutes before serving, place in upper third of a preheated, 375-degree oven to heat through thoroughly and brown the top of the sauce lightly. Serve as soon as possible.

  FONDS D’ARTICHAUTS AU GRATIN

  [Stuffed Artichoke Bottoms au Gratin]

  Stuffed artichoke bottoms make an attractive hot first course or luncheon dish.

  For 6 people

  6 large artichoke bottoms cooked in a blanc

  A buttered baking dish

  1 to 1½ cups of one of the creamed fillings, such as ham, chicken, mushrooms or shellfish

  ⅓ cup grated Swiss cheese

  1½ Tb butter

  Arrange the cooked artichoke bottoms in the baking dish. Place several spoonsful of the filling in each, heaping it into a slight dome. Sprinkle with cheese and dot with butter. About 20 minutes before serving, bake in upper third of a preheated 375-degree oven until thoroughly warmed through and the cheese has browned lightly.

  FROZEN ARTICHOKE HEARTS

  These usually come in 10-ounce packages and are baby, halved hearts with the tender center leaves still attached. We find it to be more satisfactory if you allow the vegetables to thaw enough so they can be detached from each other. They will then cook more evenly.

  For 6 servings

  1 cup chicken stock, canned chicken broth, half mushroom broth and half water, or water only

  2 Tb minced shallots or green onions (or 2 Tb each: finely diced onions, celery, carrots, and ham, previously cooked until tender in the butter)

  2 Tb butter

  ¼ tsp salt

  An 8-inch enameled saucepan or skillet

  2 packages frozen artichoke hearts, partially thawed (10 ounces each)

  Bring the liquid, shallots or onions, butter, and salt to the boil in an enameled saucepan. Add the partially thawed artichoke hearts. Cover saucepan and bring to the boil. Boil slowly for 7 to 10 minutes, or until artichoke hearts are tender. Uncover, raise heat, and boil off any remaining liquid.

  Serve them sprinkled with parsley, or in the cream sauce or cheese sauce described in the previous recipes. Or you may combine them with other cooked vegetables such as sautéed mushrooms or glazed carrots and onions.

  ASPARAGUS

  Asperges

  Cooked green asparagus should be tender yet not limp, and a fresh, beautiful green. Fresh white asparagus, so prevalent in Europe, is rarely seen in this country, but it is prepared and cooked in the same way as green asparagus. The French method of cooking asparagus is to peel it, tie it in bundles, plunge it into a very large kettle of rapidly boiling, salted water, boil it slowly until it is just tender; and to drain it immediately. Peeled asparagus cooks more quickly than unpeeled asparagus, retains its color and texture, and can be eaten usually all the way down to the butt. We have tested every asparagus cooking method we have heard of—peeled, unpeeled, boiled butts, steamed tips—and can say categorically that the freshest, greenest, and most appetizing asparagus is cooked by the French method.

  SERVING SUGGESTIONS

  Whole boiled asparagus, hot or cold, is served as a separate vegetable course either at the beginning of the meal, or in place of a salad. With hot asparagus serve a not too dry, chilled white wine such as a Graves, Barsac, Pouilly-Fumé, or Vouvray. No wine should accompany cold asparagus with a vinegar-based sauce, as the vinegar will spoil the taste of the wine.

  CHOOSING ASPARAGUS

  Select firm, crisp, stalks, moist at the cut end, and with tips which are compact and closed. Fat spears are just as tender as thin spears; as long as the asparagus must be peeled, the fat ones are easier to handle and less wasteful. Loose asparagus is preferable to asparagus in bundles, since you may examine each spear and choose ones all of a size. Plan on 6 to 10 fat spears per person, depending on your menu.

  PREPARATION FOR COOKING

  You will find that a vegetable peeler is not useful for this operation because it does not go deep enough. Asparagus is peeled not just to remove the skin, but to shave off enough of the tough outer flesh (particularly around the lower part of the spear) to make just about the whole cooked spear edible. Peeling is therefore economical.

  Hold an asparagus spear with its butt end up. Peel off the outer skin with a sharp, small knife, going as deep as 1/16 of an inch at the butt in order to expose the tender, moist flesh. Gradually make the cut shallower until you come up to the tender green portion near the tip. Shave off any scales which cling to the spear below the tip. Wash the peeled asparagus spears in a large basin of cold water. Drain.

  Line up the tips evenly and tie the asparagus in bundles about 3½ inches in diameter, one string near the tip, one near the butt. Leave one spear loose to be used as a cooking test later. Cut a bit off the butts if necessary, to make the spears all the same length.

  Peel asparagus with a small, sharp knife

  Make two ties to secure each bundle

  If not cooked immediately, set bunches upright in ½ inches of cold water. Cover the asparagus with a plastic bag and refrigerate.

  ASPERGES AU NATUREL

  [Boiled Asparagus—Hot or Cold]

  A large kettle or oval casserole containing 7 to 8 quarts rapidly boiling water (for 4 to 6 bundles of prepared asparagus spears)

  1½ tsp salt per quart of water

  Kettle must be wide enough to hold the asparagus bunches horizontally. Lay the asparagus bundles in the rapidly boiling salted water. Bring water to boil again as quickly as possible. When boil is reached, reduce heat and boil slowly, uncovered, for 12 to 15 minutes. The asparagus is done when a knife pierces the butt-end easily. The spears should bend a little, but should not be limp and droopy. Eat the loose spear as a test for doneness.

  A serving platter covered with a folded white napkin (to absorb the asparagus liquid)

  As soon as the asparagus is tender, lift it out of the water bundle by bundle with 2 forks, one slipped under each round of string. Hold up for a few seconds to drain, then place the bundle carefully on the napkin. Cut and remove the strings. Proceed quickly to the next bundle.

  If the asparagus is not to be served immediately, it will keep warm for 20 to 30 minutes covered with a napkin. Set the platter on top of the kettle of hot asparagus cooking water. The asparagus will lose a bit of its texture as it waits because it will continue to exude moisture, but it will retain its taste and color.

  Sauces to Serve with Hot Asparagus

  Allow 3 to 4 tablespoons of sauce per person.

  Sauce hollandaise. You may beat 3 or 4 tablespoons of puréed cooked asparagus spears into the hollandaise if you wish.

  Sauce Mousseline, hollandaise with cream

  Sauce Maltaise, hollandaise with orange flavoring, delicious with asparagus, and makes a nice change

  Sauce Crème, béchamel with cream and lemon juice

  Beurre au Citron, lemon butter sauce

  COLD ASPARAGUS

  To serve cold asparagus, spread the cooked spears in one layer on a double thickness of clean toweling so the asparagus will cool rapidly. When thoroughly cold, arrange on a serving dish.

  Sauces to Serve with Cold Asparagus

  Allow 2 to 4 tablespoons of sauce per person.


  Sauce Vinaigrette, French dressing, with herbs and mustard Sauce Vinaigrette à la Crème, vinaigrette with cream and herbs

  Sauce Ravigote, vinaigrette with herbs, shallots, and capers

  Sauce Moutarde, mustard sauce with herbs

  Sauce Alsacienne, soft-boiled egg mayonnaise with herbs

  Mayonnaise. 2 to 3 tablespoons of green herbs, or 4 to 6 tablespoons of puréed cooked asparagus spears may be stirred into the mayonnaise if you wish.

  ASPARAGUS TIPS

  Pointes d’ Asperges

  Asparagus tips are the part of the spear from the tip as far down as the asparagus is green and still tender. Asparagus tips are served as a separate vegetable or as part of a vegetable garnish and go well with chicken breasts, veal scallops, brains, sweetbreads, scrambled eggs, and omelettes. They are also used in a sauce to fill tarts, tartlets, or artichoke hearts, or can be served as a cold vegetable or as part of a vegetable salad.